Enzyme Peel vs Chemical Peel: What’s the Difference and Which is Right For You?

Unsure whether an enzyme peel vs chemical peel will help you achieve your skin goals? Both treatments exfoliate the skin’s surface to reveal newer, healthier skin beneath, but each type of peel provides unique benefits to help you tackle a wide variety of skin concerns and achieve a smoother, more radiant complexion. Keep reading to discover the key differences between a chemical peel and an enzyme peel so that you can make the best choice for your skin’s unique needs.

What’s the Difference Between Chemical Peels and Enzyme Peels?

Chemical peels and enzyme peels both serve similar purposes: to exfoliate the top layers of the skin without the need for harsh scrubbing or abrasive materials. But when it comes to their ingredients and how they work, the differences between an enzyme peel vs chemical peel are significant.

What is a Chemical Peel?

Chemical peels are a type of topical exfoliant that uses a solution of skincare acids to exfoliate the skin’s outer layers, shedding old skin and regenerating new skin. The type and strength of the acids used determine how deep they exfoliate and the kinds of benefits you can expect, but generally, they penetrate the skin deeper than enzyme peels. They’re categorized into three main strengths:

Superficial Peels: These target the outermost layer of the skin, the epidermis, and typically use Alpha-Hydroxy Acids (AHAs) like Glycolic Acid and Lactic Acid or Beta-Hydroxy Acids (BHAs) like Salicylic Acid. The mildest form of chemical peels, they can help treat minor skin issues like dullness, rough texture, fine lines, light hyperpigmentation, and acne and blackheads.

Medium Peels: Medium peels typically use Trichloroacetic Acid (TCA) or a combination of acids like Glycolic Acid and TCA to penetrate beyond the epidermis into the upper dermis, the inner layer of the skin. They can help treat moderate skin issues such as fine lines and wrinkles, mild to moderate sun damage and melasma, uneven skin tone and texture, and age spots and freckles.

Deep Peels: These typically use Phenol or high concentrations of TCA to penetrate the deeper layers of the dermis and treat deep wrinkles and creases, severe sun damage, significant skin discoloration or pigmentation issues, and severe acne scars.

Superficial peels include both over-the-counter skincare products that can be applied at home and slightly more intensive treatments performed in-office by a skincare professional. Because medium and deep peels are much stronger (and therefore have more intense side effects and downtime), these are usually administered by a professional in-office only.

What is an Enzyme Peel?

An enzyme peel is a type of topical exfoliant that harnesses enzymes—usually derived from natural, plant-based sources—to gently resurface the skin. These enzymes are proteolytic, which means they dissolve and remove dulling dead skin cells that build up on the skin’s surface by digesting keratin, the protein that holds them together. Common enzymes used in peels include:

Papain: Derived from papaya and pumpkin, Papain breaks down proteins and helps gently exfoliate and smooth the skin.

Bromelain: Sourced from pineapple, Bromelain contains proteolytic enzymes that dissolve dead skin cells while reducing inflammation.

Ficin: Extracted from figs, Ficin works like other proteolytic enzymes to break down keratin and gently exfoliate.

Fermented Fruit Extracts and Yeast: Derived from fruits such as apples, grapes, or berries and yeast such as Saccharomyces, these fermented ingredients contain a variety of enzymes and compounds that aid in exfoliation and boost ingredient absorption.

By eliminating the buildup of dead skin cells on the surface of the skin, enzyme peels can help improve overall texture, brighten the complexion and boost radiance, lighten mild hyperpigmentation, smooth the appearance of fine lines, and even improve hydration. When comparing the benefits of an enzyme vs chemical peel, the former is much milder, resulting in less chance of irritation and making them suitable for most types, including those with sensitivities.

Enzyme Peel vs Chemical Peel: Is One Better Than the Other?

Now that you understand the basics of an enzyme peel vs chemical peel, you may be wondering if one is better than the other—but before we answer that, let’s dive deeper into the results, side effects, costs, recovery, aftercare, and ease of use to expect for each.

What Are You Trying to Treat?

When deciding between a chemical peel vs enzyme peel, start by identifying the specific skincare concerns you’re looking to treat. If it’s general dullness and uneven texture, dryness, or mild lines and pigmentation issues, an enzyme peel is a gentle, effective place to start. If your concerns include more pronounced fine lines and discoloration or acne and blackheads, an over-the-counter chemical peel or a visit to your dermatologist for a superficial peel might be more beneficial. Deep lines and wrinkles, significant discoloration and sun damage, and more severe acne and acne scars may require a medium or deep peel.

Immediate vs Long-Term Results

Enzyme peels yield pretty immediate results—skin is immediately softer, smoother, and more vibrant, while consistent use will lead to a more even texture and tone, a reduction in minor fine lines, increased hydration as moisturizers are better able to absorb, and, because they help keep pores clear, a potential improvement in acne and blackheads. Over-the-counter chemical peels also provide an immediate fresher and brighter appearance, though there’s more likelihood of mild redness and flaking, depending on its strength. Over time, regular use will help reduce minor pigmentation issues, brighten tone, smooth texture, and reduce the appearance of fine lines.

Superficial peels performed in office will provide an immediate radiance boost, though you may notice mild redness and flaking. In the long term, they’ll improve overall texture and smoothness, smooth minor fine lines and wrinkles, lighten mild pigmentation issues, and reduce surface-level acne and blackheads.

Medium and deep are less likely to show immediate results, as the skin first needs to heal, but the long-term results are much more dramatic. You can expect a significant improvement in texture and firmness, visible lightening of pigmentation issues and sun damage, and a notable improvement in lines, wrinkles, creases, and scarring.

Side Effects

Because enzyme peels are so mild, their side effects are typically very minimal. You may experience redness, dryness, sensitivity, or, very rarely, an allergic reaction, but they’re generally suitable for most skin types, even sensitive—though it’s always wise to patch test first.

On the other hand, chemical peels may have more significant side effects. While OTC superficial peels may cause subtle redness, flaking, dryness, and rare allergic reactions, medium and deep peels’ side effects are much more serious—think intense redness, swelling, and flaking in addition to increased risk of sensitivity, pigmentation changes, infection, and scarring. The deeper the peel, the more serious the possible side effects are, and the more careful management and professional oversight are required.

Recovery Time and Aftercare

The great thing about enzyme peels? There’s no downtime, and they require little aftercare. Your skin may feel slightly sensitive or dry after application, but this will resolve in about a day or two. Opt for a gentle cleanser and soothing moisturizer immediately after, avoiding harsh exfoliants and irritating actives like retinoids or acids for a few days following.

For chemical peels, this will all depend on the intensity of the peel—the stronger the acids, the longer the recovery time, and the more complex the aftercare. For OTC chemical peels, you can expect any minor flaking or redness to resolve within a few days to a week. Like enzyme peels, you should use a gentle cleanser and hydrate regularly, avoiding harsh exfoliants and irritating actives like retinoids or acids for a few days following. In-office superficial peels are still generally mild, but you may experience slight flaking that resolves in about a week. Again, use only mild cleansers and moisturizers and avoid any harsh or irritating products while your skin is healing.

When it comes to medium and deep peels, recovery time is much more intensive—both involve discomfort, redness, and swelling immediately after. For medium strength, you can expect 7 to 10 days of peeling and redness and about 2 to 4 weeks for a full recovery; for deep, swelling and shedding can last 2 to 3 weeks, with complete recovery taking 4 to 6 weeks or more. You’ll want to opt for thick and soothing moisturizers, avoid all potential irritants, resist picking at flaking skin, monitor for any unusual reactions, and, of course, follow any specific aftercare instructions from your dermatologist.

Both enzyme and chemical peels can cause sun sensitivity, so it’s crucial to apply daily sunscreen with SPF 30 or higher, wear protective clothing, and limit sun exposure while using these products, while your skin is recovering, and for at least a week after.

Cost and Accessibility

Over-the-counter peels are much more cost-effective and accessible than their in-office counterparts, albeit lower in strength. While their ingredients and strength level will influence their price, they usually range between $20 to $100, with chemical peels typically costing more than enzyme peels. (Keep in mind that these products also contain multiple treatments per jar or tube.) In-office chemical peels can be quite costly for a one-time treatment—the exact cost will vary depending on the level of strength, the area you’re treating, and where you live. Typically, superficial peels are $75 to $200 per session, whereas medium peels range from $150 to $500 and deep peels can cost upward of $1,000 to $3,000 per session.

Ease of Use

Whether you opt for an enzyme vs chemical peel, both are generally very easy to use. Over-the-counter peels are often formulated as serums or masks, either requiring a leave-on application or rinsing off after 5 to 10 minutes—just be sure to follow any specific product directions closely. In-office peels are also “easy” to use since, well, a professional is doing the work for you!

So, Is an Enzyme Peel Better Than a Chemical Peel?

When it comes to enzyme vs chemical peels, each has its pros and cons and specific results. We wouldn’t necessarily pit one against the other, but if you’re looking for a gentle, affordable peel that requires little to no downtime and will leave skin glowing, radiant, and smooth, an enzyme peel is definitely the way to go!

Why We Prefer Enzyme Peels at Naturopathica

While the enzyme peel vs chemical peel debate may come down to your unique skin goals, we’re big fans of the gentle yet effective nature of enzyme peels at Naturopathica. That’s why we offer a full collection of enzyme peels, each complemented with botanical actives to address various skin concerns. Our Pumpkin Purifying Enzyme Peel pairs enzyme-rich Pumpkin Puree with Lactic Acid and a trio of antiseptic herbs to help clarify congested skin and unclog pores, while the Sweet Cherry Brightening Enzyme Peel blends Bromelain with antioxidant-rich Sweet Cherry Puree and lactic Acid to help brighten and smooth sun-damaged skin. For deep nourishment and a natural glow boost, our Pear & Fig Polishing Enzyme Peel counts on enzyme-packed Pear & Fig Puree, Lactic Acid, and gentle Jojoba Beads to help smooth and rejuvenate dull, dry skin.

Bringing Our Chemical Peel vs Enzyme Peel Comparison to a Close

While chemical peels will always have their place for more prominent or severe skin concerns, enzyme peels are an affordable and effective option for boosting radiance, improving overall skin texture and tone, and even tackling minor fine lines, sun damage, and breakouts—all from the comfort of your own home. With essentially no downtime and little risk of irritation or side effects, they make an excellent starting point for anyone new to exfoliating treatments. Try one of our enzyme peels today to witness their skin-smoothing, glow-inducing magic for yourself.

Shop This Post